T-shirt is a language, a manifesto, a battle cry woven into fabric

The T-Shirt: From Undergarment to Political and Protest Banner

Long confined to its role as an undergarment, the t-shirt has gradually established itself as a true medium of expression. From the military to countercultures, it has evolved from a discreet uniform to a powerful symbol of political and social protest. This iconic garment has transcended eras and social movements, bearing both bold slogans and symbols of cultural identity.

From Soldiers to Bikers: The T-Shirt as a Symbol of Belonging

The history of the t-shirt has always been inseparable from social and economic concerns. Initially developed by the U.S. Navy as a practical form of underwear that could be easily washed, this versatile garment allowed uniforms to be worn for days in a row. From there, it spread to other industries requiring manual labor, particularly in agriculture and manufacturing. In this sense, the plain white tee has always been tied to social hierarchy, as the first uniform of the post-industrial working class.

A US military wearing a stenciled t-shirt

During World War II, soldiers commonly inscribed their t-shirts with their serial numbers, regiment symbols, or even pin-up drawings hidden beneath their uniforms. As veterans returned home, particularly those who became bikers, they personalized their t-shirts by adding slogans or the initials of their motorcycle clubs, often cutting off the sleeves for a rugged look. This practice transformed the t-shirt from a simple undergarment into a badge of identity.

The T-Shirt as a Medium for Personal and Musical Expression

In the 1970s, musicians and artists began using t-shirts as a canvas for self-expression. Similarly, Mick Jagger's 'Palace Laundry' t-shirt, captured in a famous photograph by Jim Marshall, became an instantly iconic image, merging rock 'n' roll with fashion.

The tie-dye t-shirt gained cultural prominence during the 1960s as a vibrant symbol of the countercultural hippie movement, reflecting ideals of peace, individuality, and rebellion. Popularized at iconic gatherings like Woodstock, it became closely associated with free-spirited living and psychedelic aesthetics. Rock bands such as the Grateful Dead embraced the trend, incorporating tie-dye into their merchandise and inspiring fans to create their own DIY versions—often sold outside concert venues in what became known as “Shakedown Street” culture. This grassroots merch economy blurred the lines between music, fashion, and community, cementing tie-dye’s place in both rock history and streetwear culture.

On the left: Picture took at a Grateful Dead gig by Bob Minkin in 1974

On the Right: Joe Cocker live at Woodstock Festival by Elliot Landy in 1969

John Lennon played a key role in popularizing slogan T-shirts, turning them into a true form of self-expression. In an interview, he reflected on one of his iconic T-shirts, which bore the phrase You are here. Inspired by the graphic art of the time, this message resonated with a generation questioning its identity, in contrast to the famous 1960s mantra Turn on, tune in, drop out. “We were all trying to find ourselves, asking, ‘Where and who am I?’” he explained. Thus, You are here became more than just a printed phrase—it evolved into a slogan in its own right, capturing the spirit of an era in search of meaning. John Lennon's 'You Are Here' t-shirt symbolized the philosophical questioning of the era, a response to the 1960s counterculture movement.

 John Lennon wearing the You Are Here T-shirt by Bob Gruen in New York, 1972

The graphic tee took a major leap forward in 1969 when Michael Vasilatone invented the Dual Rotating Printing Press, revolutionizing production by making it faster and more affordable—paving the way for the golden age of band merch. Inspired by the Beatles and Rolling Stones, who capitalized on merchandising in the '60s, bands quickly realized that a powerful logo was almost as vital as their sound. Soon, merch became a staple at record stores, concerts, and eventually big-name retailers. This era set the blueprint for band merchandise, with its iconic designs still replicated today from Target to Saks. The '70s also gave us unforgettable images of artists proudly rocking their own gear—a rarity now—and fans crafting DIY tribute tees at home to wear to shows, like in Led Zeppelin’s The Song Remains the Same, where homemade bootlegs became part of the culture. A notable example is Fontaines D.C., who, during their recent tour across the United States and Europe, offered exclusive t-shirt designs tailored to cities on the itinerary—transforming their merchandise into both a collectible and a localized expression of the tour’s identity.

The grunge movement of the early 1990s continued this trend. When Nirvana performed on Saturday Night Live in 1992, Kurt Cobain wore a hand-drawn Flipper t-shirt, a tribute to the influential punk band. This DIY approach highlighted the rebellious ethos of both punk and grunge, reinforcing the t-shirt's role as a tool for cultural messaging.

Kurt Cobain wearing the hand-drawn Flipper t-shirt in Sydney 1992

The T-Shirt as a Punk Canvas

The next milestone for the t-shirt came in the 1970s when Vivienne Westwood established her legendary 'SEX' boutique on King's Road. While punk rockers were modifying their t-shirts with safety pins and ripped fabric, Westwood recognized their potential as a blank canvas for radical political statements. One of her most controversial designs, a 1975 graphic depicting two cowboys touching penises, even led to the arrest of a shop attendant for 'indecent exhibition.'

Cowboys t-shirt by Vivienne Westwood

Another pivotal figure in t-shirt activism was Katharine Hamnett. In the 1980s, she pioneered the slogan t-shirt, printing bold political messages on simple garments. Her 'CHOOSE LIFE' t-shirt, famously worn by George Michael and Andrew Ridgeley of Wham!, became a cultural phenomenon. Over time, her designs increasingly addressed pressing global issues such as African poverty and environmental protection. Hamnett firmly believed that clothing could serve as a medium for political engagement, challenging the notion that fashion is merely superficial.

George Michael and Andrew Ridgeley wearing the CHOOSE LIFE t-shirt

From a simple functional garment to a powerful tool of expression, the t-shirt has cemented itself as an essential medium of visual communication. Worn by soldiers, hippies, bikers, and rockers alike, it has reflected the values and ideals of each generation, adapting to the ever-changing tides of culture and rebellion. Today, it remains a go-to canvas for protest, activism, and self-identity—proof that fashion is far more than just aesthetics. It is a language, a manifesto, a battle cry woven into fabric. And as long as voices need to be heard, the t-shirt will continue to speak.